A Timeline of Fashion and Duration
The Metropolitan Museum of Art opened their annual costume exhibit in late October with the theme “About Time: Fashion and Duration." In May, The Met Gala was officially #canceled in true 2020 fashion due to the pandemic and because I can’t have nice things. Now that it’s November, many are thinking about the holidays and looking to the holiday season to make their spirits bright. I, however, am still thinking about the incredible lineup of looks we could have had on a star-studded red carpet on the first Monday in May. The cancellation of this prestigious event isn’t going to stop me, however, from trying to create a vision of what a carpet could have looked like. Since the theme for this year was about assessing fashion of the past, let’s take a look at some of the past Met Gala looks that would withstand the test of time and make for great additions to a red carpet in 2020.
When discussing iconic looks of the Met Gala, we MUST mention Cher wearing Bob Mackie to the 1974 Met Gala. This dress has really set the standard for gowns at the Gala. Cher wore a nearly completely sheer dress beaded with Swarovski crystals and white feathers. The dress caused so much buzz that it landed her on the cover of TIME Magazine at a time when the publication never featured celebrities or covered fashion. The print cover was so controversial that it had been banned in several cities. The dress is easily one of the most durable examples of fashion at the Gala and is seen as a trailblazer for modern nude dresses.
Diana Ross wore this black and white tulle, layered ruffle coat to the Met Gala in 1981. The coat is certainly indicative of the ‘80s influence on fashion and remains on just about everyone’s list for most iconic pieces from the Gala. This look proved to be timeless when Diana broke it out of the back of her closet for the American Music Awards in 2014.
Naomi Campbell showed up to the ‘95 Met Gala with Gianni Versace on her arm and a Versace draped on her slim figure. The supermodel wore a glittered gown that sparkled every time a light hit her. The dress is a quintessential ‘90s chic silhouette with an edge of glamor.
We can’t have a conversation about duration without discussing arguably the most influential artist on the planet. Beyonce was swimming in this black custom mermaid Emilio Pucci dress with gold detailing at the 2011 Met Gala. The design of this dress calls back to Baroque-era influence that had a resurgence in the 1920s and furthermore in the designs of Versace.
Ashley Olsen wore vintage Dior haute couture for the Met Gala in 2011. The dress by itself overall is simple and not very memorable, but the sleeves are *chef’s kiss.* The off-the-shoulder, cream-colored short puffed peasant sleeves have come in and out of style throughout history in various cultures. Vogue first coined the ‘peasant blouse’ in the early 1900s, and this boho-chic style of dress was popular in the 1960s and 1970s. The Dior dress combines an element of colonial fashion with modern fashion.
Alicia Keys and husband Swizz Beatz both wore Givenchy suits to the 2012 Met Gala. This is by no means or any stretch of the imagination a groundbreaking look to wear to the Gala. This could be, however, a statement as to how far fashion has come in the last 150 years. I expect men to show up in a suit like this to an esteemed event — anything else is above and beyond. A woman showing up to an event like this in a suit is powerful, though. At an event that celebrates fashion over the last 150 years, a couple wearing matching suits could be a remark on how far fashion has come for men and women — men’s fashion has not drastically changed whereas a woman wearing a suit was, at one point, unthinkable.
Lupita Nyong’o donned a nude mini dress layered with an emerald green jeweled mesh garment to the 2014 Met Gala. The look echoes that of Josephine Baker, a Black entertainer from the 1920s, calling back to a time of flappers, showgirls and suffragettes. The dress was accented with beading and feathers throughout, which have since become staples in design embellishments. If fashion was ever a sign of the times, a flapper dress would be one of the most iconic symbols.
For the 2017 Met Gala and in keeping with the theme of 1920, rapper Lil Yachty emerged in an all-ivory, 1920s-inspired, Moschino three piece suit — complete with collared shirt, U-neck waistcoat, trousers and single breasted tailcoat. As I’ve said, most men appeal to a standard look in terms of fashion, but this suit adds some nice variety to the carpet and would also serve as perfect evening wear for men any time before the 1930s. Over time, men have become softened up a bit and gotten slightly more casual, but the suit remains one of the most static garments of all time. Lil Yachty is accessorized with a white top hat, bow tie and decorative cane.
Chinese model Liu Wen attended the 2017 Met Gala in Off-White™. This dress represents the absolute GLOW UP that denim has had as a fabric. Traditionally, denim was only used for intense physical laborers and agricultural work throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries. The advent of Hollywood brought us Western films that would popularize the fabric in the 1950s by the likes of Marlon Brando and Marilyn Monroe. Since then it reached its peak in ‘90s fashion and now can be seen on high-fashion couture gowns.
Music, fashion, historic icon Rihanna stole the show at the 2018 Met Gala that she co-chaired. She showed up in Maison Margiela religious royalty cosplaying as the pope. She dressed in head-to-toe regal papal realness with a strapless thigh-length mini dress, ankle-length oversized robe and traditional Catholic mitre headdress, each with very intricate designs and encrusted with pearls and jewels. Is it indicative of time period fashion? Not quite. It is, however, a reference to how religion has been a stable entity throughout the last 150 years and even far beyond that. Nobody would dare to attempt a Rihanna recreation, but it would be interesting to see if someone would show up to a time-themed Met Gala with some religious reference given that the 2018 Met Gala was all about how religion has influenced the fashion world for ages.
Diane Kruger appeared at the 2018 Met Gala in a satin powder blue Prabal Gurung. The actress wore a minidress with ornate gold detailing and large balloon sleeves around the elbow. Perhaps the most captivating aspect of the dress was the train that trailed behind Diane as she walked the carpet. She also accessorized the dress with a floral pearl headpiece holding a netted face covering in place. The dress marries 19th century decoration with the flair of a dress from the 1980s.
In 2019, Taylor Hill attended the Met Gala in a simple, classic, elegant look that harkens back to the golden age of Hollywood glam. The model came to the pink carpet in a strapless champagne blush pink silk slip dress with a feathery wrap. This is a look that was the gold standard for dress in the ‘50s, as it was flattering to the figure and made you look rich.
Lady Gaga was the talk of the town when she attended the 2019 Met Gala with a four-in-one look. Her Brandon Maxwell ensemble started out as a magenta cream puff creation with large, puffy sleeves that billow atop a large bustle and train. Although much campier (in keeping with the 2019 Met Gala theme), the look is reminiscent of evening gowns from the 1800s.
How does a dress inspired by a cartoon make this list? For generations and generations, this folktale has been made into thousands of variations. The 1950 Disney film is definitely a classic among them though. To this day, Cinderella has withstood decades of innovations in film and technology. The Tommy Hilfiger dress marries the iconography of the past with advancements in tech by allowing for the dress to transform into a fully-lit, blown-up recreation. Plus it is Zendaya — need I say more?
La La Anthony’s dress would be a different take for the 2020 theme. As we all know, the Met Gala theme is purposefully left ambiguous in order to leave room for artistic interpretation. The television personality showed up to the 2019 Met Gala looking like $100 in custom Pyer Moss. This would be a very thoughtful take on ‘Fashion & Duration.’ Money has remained a constant staple throughout all of history. Wearing this garment on a 2020 carpet could be a statement on the timeless quest to attain money in a capitalistic society. After all … time is money.
While the majority of men show up to the Met Gala in some mundane form of a suit (typically not in keeping with the theme), Travis Scott’s utilitarian military-style uniform would fit in perfectly. For the larger part of history, nations have been at war with each other over money, power and control. World Wars I and II have also had significant impacts on fashion production and trends that we still see today, so it wouldn’t be too farfetched to see something like this under the umbrella of ‘Fashion & Duration.’
It’s Barbie’s world. We’re just living in it. Kacey Musgraves came to the 2019 Met Gala in a fuscia leather Moschino Barbie dream dress complete with matching hair dryer purse and fur shawl. The Mattel toy company invented the Barbie doll in 1959, and it has since become an icon for children of every generation. Barbie is a toy that every girl wanted to be like and who, as the years have gone by, has become something of a feminist icon. She shows that girls can wear pretty clothes, but can also hold any and every job that she wants. “Barbie represents that a woman always has choices,” says Barbie creator Ruth Handler. Barbie has remained relevant and evolved with the times. These days she even has her own YouTube channel where she vlogs a closet tour and also discusses racism. I could envision a Barbie-themed outfit on the red carpet because she does represent fashion AND duration.
Yes, Rihanna is on this list again. The golden yellow Guo Pei gown paid homage to Chinese culture at the 2015 Gala themed ‘China: Through the Looking Glass,’ exploring the ornate influence China’s culture has had on fashion. Not only did this dress earn its place as one of the most iconic looks at the Gala, it also earned a place on the internet as one of the most memeable moments of the year. The garment is embroidered with a royal floral pattern and is trimmed with yellow fox fur. Rih accessorized this with a metallic gold headpiece. This would make a great return to the carpet in 2020 because it is really a symbol of grand Chinese couture of both the past and present.
Photo source: Getty Images
By Ryán Salamo
Instagram: @astr0man74