A Designer Runway Update
Runway shows have been around for decades, yet they are always changing. What started as model statues posing in couture has evolved to full-scale theatrical productions. Yet no matter how outrageous or minimal some shows turn out, they are always true emulations of the brand's identity. From the music to the lighting, each show corresponds to a theme that the creative director senselessly thought out.
Then the pandemic hit, and everything started to change once again. Designers were forced to make rapid creative decisions for how to showcase their Cruise, Spring/Summer 2021, and all the collections in between. Some decided to go virtual or postpone their events. Others have scrapped the entire tradition of fashion week and decided to create their own fashion calendars.
Dior’s Cruise 2021 collection will have a private showing to friends and family of the brand on July 22. For the Spring 2021 Haute Couture show, they will be following the trend of a digital presentation on July 6. As for the spring/summer 2021, brand CEO Pietro Beccari hopes to have a small, traditional runway showing.
Burberry plans to have an outdoor runway show for Spring 2021 in London in September, chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci told WWD. This show, like Dior, will only be open to the models and members of the team. The show will also be streamed digitally, as the British Fashion Council made arrangements for doing so for both their June and September designers
Michael Kors announced they will be stepping back from traditional fashion weeks and hosting their fashion shows sometime between October and November, according to Vogue. In a statement to the magazine, Kors says he has waited, “for a long time thought that the fashion calendar needs to change. It's exciting for me to see the open dialogue within the fashion
community about the calendar — from Giorgio Armani to Dries Van Noten to Gucci to YSL to major retailers around the globe — about ways in which we can slow down the process and improve the way we work.”
Gucci and Saint Laurent have also canceled their fashion month show in favor of their own schedules. Both announced their plans in Instagram posts a month apart. Gucci’s designer Alessandro Michele stated that there be no more pre-collections — instead, only two lines a year.
Off White’s plans to close the gap between showing and selling consists of a debut in January, rather than the Spring 2021 shows at Paris Fashion Week. This allows for the products to be on the shelves only a month after the show.
Valentino just announced they will be showing at Paris’ digital couture week on July 8th and will have a live event in Rome on July 21. The creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli plans to unveil his inspiration for the collection in the digital portion, and have the live event be strictly Italian press. The live event will also be streamed live on their social channels.
Dolce&Gabbana, Alta Sartoria, and Alta Moda are joining together for a combined fashion show event in Florence in September. The show, which is being hosted by Pitti Immagine and the City of Florence, will be streamed live on website platforms.
Alexander Wang has established its own fashion calendar way before it was a trend among designers. Since 2018, the brand has only hosted two shows, one in June and one in December. Therefore, the pandemic’s changed hardly affects their plans.
By Staci Soslowitz