South Africa’s Newest Talent

Designer Thulani Mlambo of Saint Vuyo.

Photo: Courtesy of Lizmarie Richardson Photography for SA Fashion Week

South African Fashion Week (SAFW) is one of the most anticipated events on the local fashion calendar, as it never fails to showcase South Africa's greatest designers. SAFW's New Talent Search competition, established in 1998, is a coveted honor for emerging talent. that wishes to begin their journey in the fashion industry. Past winners of the competition, namely David Tlale, MmusoMaxwell, and Jacques van der Watt of Black Coffee, have gone on to achieve considerable recognition.

This journey is of Thulani Vuyo Mlambo, who launched the impressive first collection of his newly founded label, “Saint Vuyo” during this season’s SAFW SS21. Determined to dismantle the hegemonic gender codes of society, Vuyo created a unisex brand that pays homage to his heritage and his suburban “botjie” lifestyle.

Mlambo’s journey in fashion began with his studies, an undergraduate degree in Fashion Design at the Design School of Southern Africa, and later completed his honors degree from LISOF in 2019.

During his Honors, he received the opportunity to work for Roman Handt, a South African avant-garde fashion designer and textile scientist. Mlambo has worked under the wings of multiple well-known designers including Thebe Magugu, who is the first African designer to be awarded the LVMH Prize.

In 2020, Mlambo found himself in a pressing situation of unemployment due to the lack of funds caused by the Global Pandemic. Not long after his loss of employment, Mlambo stumbled across an Instagram post detailing a Feature Fashion competition that he was interested in taking part in; However, met with another shocking blow, the competition was canceled at the last minute! Despite this Mlambo shares that this was his final push. He needed to start his namesake brand Saint Vuyo!

“I decided to call my label Vuyo because Vuyo is my middle-name, direct translation of Vuyo in Xhosa (one of the official languages of South Africa and Zimbabwe) is Joy or Happiness. I find it quite fitting to actually call my label Saint Vuyo because it(fashion) has given me nothing but joy and happiness”, he shares. All the more reason to pay attention to South Africa's newest talent on the market.

Volatile: Honestly speaking, it was very brave of you to launch your brand during the pandemic. What are your plans for Saint Vuyo?

Thulani Vuyo Mlambo: Currently my plan is to showcase my label internationally and stocking stores as well. I would like to create online stores and promote my brand internationally. I also would like to collaborate with other designers around the world to learn from them.

V: when establishing Saint Vuyo, did you have a financial backer or someone to financially support you? 

TVM: I have to supportive parent, so a lot of financial backing was from my parents, outside of that there is no other financial backing or support. I did, however, model on the side and the income generated from that helped with creating my SAFW collection. 

V: your South African Fashion Week collection is based on the tarot card, Wheel of Fortune, why did you decide on using this as your inspiration? 

TVM: A while ago, I did a tarot card reading and a wheel of fortune came up on my cards. I was told to keep it close to me and that it spins well in my favor, it brings good karma, good fortune and I was really that much inspired, and I decided to use my personal story to tell the beginning of my journey into fashion. 

V: How do you feel about being part of SAFW’S new talent Programme for 2021?

TVM: I am honored to be a designer presenting at fashion week, and I am grateful for the opportunity to say and show the world my story as Vuyo.

V: Having just launched and under a pandemic, what would you say is the hardest challenge you have faced?

TVM: Finding out the ins and outs of running a brand. You cannot just do it as a one man show, wish I could, but you cannot. You need a team of professionals that can drive the brand and I think that has been my biggest challenge right now, finding individuals to create a team that work together and create something and build the brand. Gaining the correct resource for the label.

V: what was your biggest out take from your first ever fashion week?

TVM: Just how much growth I have done and how much I have come full circle. I started of volunteering for Fashion Week and fashion shows during my first year in university and now 8 years later, I am a designer for Fashion week. I find it…I am still taking it in.  

V: what is next for Saint Vuyo?

TVM: I am currently working on stocking my first online store with Lesela, an online market site where South African Brands market and sell their products. I am also working on the next chapter for Saint Vuyo, which will be a menswear collection. 

By Keren Beya

@Kerebear_5